Monday, January 26, 2015

Phnom Penh ~ Temples and Killing Fields

“In wisdom gathered over time I have found that every experience is a form of exploration.”  
     ~ Ansel Adams


    For us, real travel is the exploration of new experiences!  Of course, there is a certain envy of a Guided River Cruise, or being pampered on a guided safari in the wilds of Africa or other remote places ~ but in truth we enjoy the challenge and even the hardships of independent travel.

This being said - things have gotten much easier with modern technology  -  being able to book rooms on the fly, to Skype with Stuart and Sara as they continue on their own exploration, and even to document our travel with this very blog, yet not knowing what is around the next corner, or connecting with local peoples and other travelers,  or changing destinations on a good tip is really what makes it exciting and rewarding for us.

    After just 10 days in Cambodia - Carol and I have become very enamored with the country.  The people, the history, and the beauty of the countryside make Cambodia a place we feel strongly drawn to.  The people are very friendly and sweet natured. Our encounters with tuk-tuk drivers, hotel and restaurant employees, street hawkers, and even Cambodians who are fellow travelers have been really rewarding ~ people in general are amazing to each other - there is no explaining the complexity of traffic in Phnom Penh, yet is like harmonious chaos - there are no traffic laws. None. and yet there is no angry honking or road rage ~ just hundreds of thousands of motor bikes, scooters, cars, wagons, rickshaws, minivans, buses and pedestrians weaving in a harmonious symphony of traffic.  We have never seen anything like it!

    Along with all the beauty and wonder that one experiences with overseas travel, there is often a glimpse at some of the horror and sadness that is sometimes across the tracks or on the outskirts of a city or in some areas almost omnipresent.
There are three "negative" things you come across in Cambodia.  Their recent history under Pol Pot, widespread poverty, and sanitation/environmentalism.
In this respect the worst of the three is the history of the Khmer Rouge and Pol Pot.
You have to talk yourself into going to the Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields on the edge of Phnom Penh.  It is one of the darkest spots in human history and yet in our western mindset it has little relevance compared to the horrors of WWII or current atrocities by ISIS.  In any case we came, we saw, we wept.  It is a heart wrenching thing to see and learn about -  but.... that is all part of the human experience and it is important to realize how depraved that have to much power and might can be and how much evil they can unleash on the most powerless.
for those interested:
 http://www.historyplace.com/worldhistory/genocide/pol-pot.htm

OK ~ you still with me?  I won't go on but there will be some pics that try to capture some of that part of our experience in Phnom Penh.

So the Good Experiences??  Phnom Penh has many beautiful temples and the Royal Palace is awe inspiring!  We actually loved the traffic chaos/symphony, we hired the same tuk-tuk driver "Kim" for 3 days & a had a ball with him. The Russian Market.
We had some very good meals  including Luk Lak, Cambodian Soup, Amok, and Grilled Seafood ~ to name a few.  Nothing says "refreshing" like a cold Angkor Beer in the 90 degree heat of the city, and the boulevard along the river is great in the evening.
We even did a sunset cruise on the Mekong our last night there.

Well here come a bunch of photos if you have made it this far.  Right now we are in Kep, Cambodia (more on that next time), and will be going to Vietnam in a few days.

Cheers!  Don and Carol

                                           typical house on stilts on road to Phnom Penh

                       Our driver "Kim" safely negotiating our way through Phnom Penh traffic

                                                5 Photos of the Royal Palace Grounds




                                                           2 guys clowning around


              Our dinner at  Domrei Kitchen near the Royal Palace with our dear friend Cecelia
                                                         Grilled Seafood and Meat Plate

                                              Papaya Salad,  Amok, and Steamed Rice

                                                  May our paths cross again Cecelia!!

                                               some of the many temples in Phnom Penh
 

                                                The Russian Market in South Phnom Penh:




                                                                coconut grinder
Legumes
 
Sunset Boat Cruise on the Mekong and Fishing Village
                                                        Royal Palace from the River






         Across the River from Phnom Penh is a permanent Fishing Village

Contrast in Economy

Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Siem Reap. Cambodia

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Siem Reap exudes charm amid a mixture of Party Town and an endless parade of tuk tuks, motorcycles, and tourist throngs looking for the best deals on bananas in crepes, grilled meats, local tours, fish massages, or the endless stalls in the night markets selling beautiful and colorful Cambodian fabrics, baskets, and other local art.
                                       Cambodian Border Crossing ....2 /1/2 hours of chaos!
Our bus ride from Bangkok was a 9 hour mix of beautiful scenery, connections with new friends from near and far, and a wild  2 1/2 hour border crossing consisting of  complete chaos and 3rd World disorganization.  The flatness of the countryside really struck me ~ endless miles of rice paddies punctuated by small villages and very few hills.  We had a nice interchange with a Thai family in the bus station with 2 beautiful Children and visited with a Chinese couple who retired from teaching at Idaho State and now live in Renton ~ also on their way to Cambodia.
                                                           Are they Cute or What?

On the bus Carol spent the whole trip conversing with Cecilia ~ an adorable girl from Singapore - who we have met for dinner twice in Siem Reap. 
 Caro and Cecilia at Dakshik Indian Restaurant
 
We also connected with Chuck and Charlene Howell who were on the same bus - and live on Samish Island - just a few miles from our house.  We thoroughly enjoyed their company and did a great tour together of Mount Kulen a very significant place in Cambodian history dating back to 802 AD.    
With Chuck and Charlene after our trip to Mt. Kulen


                       *                  *               *               *              *             *               *
So three days and 4 nights in Siem Reap ~ and leaving for the capital ~ Phnom Penh tomorrow.
So what did we do here?? you might ask....  Well..........

Day one:   up at 4:30 am for a 5 am tuk tuk ride with "Mister Black" or Sievhorn as we later got out of him.  For $20 you get a tuk tuk driver and guide to take you for the day through Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom ~ two absolutely stunning and overwhelming major ruin sites of temples and so much more.  Dating back to the 9th century this is Cambodia's major highlite and not to be missed.
                                                            Sunrise at Angkor Wat





lunch with Sievorn our tuk tuk driver


Day Two: 9 am minivan with Chuck and Charlene, 2 Brits, and 5 girls from Singapore.
Pi was our guide for the all day  trip and a guy driving the van too.
This is a fascinating and very sacred place in Cambodia dating back to the early 9th century.  A river bed where they cut stone for Angkor temples that is 30 feet across and the entire bed is carved stone with figures and "10,000 stones".
 16 meter long reclining Buddha that is carved from a 3 story  bolder and encased in a temple built on top of the bolder.  a beautiful 100 ft water fall and free running springs at the top of the mountain.  Simply  incredible!

Here is a link to this incredible area:
http://www.archaeology.org/issues/165-1501/letter-from/2779-letter-from-cambodia-phnom-kulen

                                                      Incredible Carved River Bed

                                                  Stairs to Reclining Buddha temple

                                                     Monk below Buddha Temple

                                           3 story boulder that the Temple is built on

                                  Carol looks "enlightened" in front of 16 meter long Reclining Buddha

                                                Waterfall below Reclining Buddha temple

                                      Making Palm Sugar on the way back to Siem Reap

                                                                The finished product

                                    A favorite street dessert: Rice crepe with banana and chocolate

 Day Three: Cambodian Cooking Class in the morning with a trip to the market, Finished off with a Massage.   (sorry this has turned into such a long post ~but what can I say ~ Siem Reap Rocks!)
starting with Mango Salad
 
 

                                        Mise en place (everything ready to go}

                                     Soere ~ our Cooking instructor ~  What a Sweetie!

                                  "Amok" a very popular Cambodian Curry with Fish or Chicken

                                                                   Fried Spring Rolls
Soere and her cook assistant after Class

                                                     Sausage Heaven at the Market!

                                                              Pork Products Anyone?

                                                              Beautiful Vegetables

                                                                   Lots of Seafood!

Hope all is well back home We are 6 more nights in Cambodia before we enter Vietnam ~  We will keep you posted!!       Don and Carol